Sharjah is the third largest
Emirate, having some 2,600 sq km and coasts on both Arabian Gulf and the Gulf of
Oman. It surpassed Dubai as a maritime trading center until a dreadful night
half a century ago when a terrible storm silted up its creek.
Sharjah took an early lead in
developing tourism. Some tourists use it as a base of exploring the other
Emirates and the Sultanate of Oman. It is less crowded and the hotels are
significantly less expensive than the competition in Dubai. Sharjah is also a
popular arrival point for shoppers, with thousands ( mostly from the former
Eastern bloc) entering the UAE via its airport on one-week visas.
Sharjah suq is the most
amazing building in the entire country. It looks like the Taj Mahal but is in
fact a long shopping mall. Some praise the grandeur of the architecture,
others are not convinced. It is a very convenient shopping center for
short-term visitors as everything is available under one roof. Most visitors
are interested in the traditional ware, including jewellery, carpets, hubble-
pipes and so on. The more humble shops near the main suq are good places to
find more obscure things such as spices from the smaller Indian states and
cassettes with the latest songs from Africa.
Sharjah is proud of its
reputation as a guardian of the country’s cultural and intellectual tradition.
The Sharjah Expo Centre is a sight almost as stunning as the suq. It is a vast
striped tent, which can get very hot in summer. Many exhibitions, including
major book fairs, attract visitors throughout the year. On the northern side of
the city, an imposing Cultural Centre has been built; its main brief is to
promote Arab culture but it also hosts Western events, including performances
of Shakespeare and exhibitions of photographs by both nationals and expatriates.
The wharf on Sharjah creek
has not been spoilt by development. It gives a truly exotic feel for the way of
life of the traditional seafarers. Hundreds of dhows still import and export an
array of goods that one can see piled up on the quayside. Here, probably more
than anywhere else on the UAE coast, one has the feeling of stepping back in
time. Despite being able to cross the Indian Ocean, the dhows are so small and
open that one can be fascinated by watching all the activity on board. It is
interesting to speculate on the business of the various wild characters on sees
negotiating passionately with the captains, but probably unwise to enquire. The
sailors (mostly from the Indian subcontinent0 live a life that would have been
familiar to Lord Jim and probably to Sindbad the Sailor,
Cricket is the activity that
puts Sharjah on the map in the sporting world. The only cricket stadium in the
Arab world hosts on-day matches in the winter for the top cricketing terms. It
is said that one has not experienced full human passion until one has been in
the crowd at an India v. Pakistan cricket match.
Part of the Emirate of
Sharjah lies across the Hajar Mountains on the east coast, fronting the Gulf of
Oman. The most northerly town is Dibba, now a small fishing village but its
site was first occupied at least 3,000 years ago and has a long trading history,
as do the delightful villages of Kalba and Khor Fakkan. Both of them have the
remains of fortifications built by the Portuguese, who controlled this coast for
a short time in the seventeenth century. Khor Fakkan has a majestic bay,
overlooked by the Oceanic Hotel, where one can witness multi-coloured sunrises
and sunsets.
One of the delights of this
area is that the mountains come down almost to the sea(and sometimes right into
it), creating an endlessly varied and picturesque coastline. The villages are
populated almost entirely by nationals, which is rare in the UAE. The is the
ideal place to come in winter to write the novel one never got round to.
Sharjah is showing signs of
revitalization- it has attracted hundreds of companies which appreciate its
location and its supportive government. Fishing is no longer such an
Important industry as there is
more money to be made servicing the oil tankers and other ships which anchor
offshore while preparing to make their entry into the relatively shallow waters
of the Gulf. Sharjah is growing in size and plans are being implemented to
modernize its infrastructure, including the road system. Tragic at Sharjah
Airport is increasing all the time, partly because it has added a very tempting
duty-free facility. The future is being.